These are not the codes that have garnered recent fame and criticism, in
major mass publications over the past few months; but rather, an ancient and
complex allocation of values and symbols to transmit messages and legends,
spun with most beautiful colors of the Central American forest.
Through their costumes, the Mayan peoples of Guatemala convey codes of gender,
identity, hierarchy or simply exhibit a impressive catalogue of multicolored
textile motifs. Still today and at a single glance, the Mayans can recognize
the ciphers coded in the "huipiles", those beautiful blouses that
announce among many other messages, the region and the village of the women
that wear them.
The surrounding Nature as it is logical, has contributed to weaving the most
extensive range of symbology. The jaguar, the quetzal and the serpent have
been important symbols in the pre-Hispanic Central American vision of the
cosmos. For the Mayans, the serpent usually represents depths and zeniths
of the mountain ranges. Linked to fertility, the serpent also symbolizes the
sacred energy that gives life to the universe and its representation is frequent
in weaves of Chimaltenango, San Juan Socatepequez, Sololá and the Alta
Verapaz.
The cultural philosophical syncretism resulting from the conquest and Spanish
colonization, contributed to new symbols and motifs in the Mayan Code, such
as the two headed eagle of the Hapsburgs; that appears in some of the textile
weaves of Chichicastenango, Sololá and Guatemala. The concept duality
is nevertheless, pre-Hispanic. Mayan rulers of a certain period used crowns
adorned with two headed serpent icons, a motif in duality that usually represents
good and evil; the Heavens and the Earth; the past and the future.
Of the pre-Hispanic era, is the textile representation of a tree as the Center
of the Universe, later influenced by the Muslim vision of the Tree of Life,
brought by Spaniards to the New World and weaved into numerous ceremonial
costumes by the Mayans.
Myths and legends of the populace also live in Mayan weaves. The bird perched
on a tobacco leaf, used so frequently in the embroidery, refers the legend
of the Lord Sun who fell in love with the lady Moon, the daughter of the Lord
of the Mountains and Valleys. It is said that the Lord Sun to get closer to
the Moon, borrowed the feathers of a hummingbird and flew to tobacco plant,
from where he could contemplate the Moon in all its splendor.
The complex array of messages that are hidden in Mayan huipiles, reflects
the particular vision of weavers that do not work on an assembly line but
in communion with their inner self, transferring through the rustic loom supported
at their waist; the pain, the joy and the hope of a forgotten social history,
the multiplying effect of tourism currencies has of the is has audaciously
tried to stop.
Although today you can obtain quality textiles of Mayan symbols produced
by machines; yet, the traditional handmade huipil, unique, inimitable, preserving
the code of its millenarian culture; continues to be the pride and joy of
its owner.
Quetzals and orchids, birds, lakes, mountains and volcanoes weaved in the
brilliant polychrome of Mayan fabrics; are beautiful embroidered souvenirs
that without becoming a load in your suitcase alleviate the plight of Mayan
families in remote villages and the many deficiencies of their daily life.